Baggage Claim Blues and Mountain Views: Hiking, Eating, and Sleeping My Way Through Italy

Carissa Dunaway
Jul 19
9 min read

Venice, Cortina d’Ampezzo & Hut-to-Hut Hiking in the Dolomites

This summer, we embarked on a whirlwind trip through Northern Italy — a journey filled with luxury, adventure, unexpected detours, and unforgettable mountain views. From the canals of Venice to the alpine charm of Cortina d’Ampezzo and the rugged beauty of the Dolomites, every moment delivered a story worth telling.

If you’re planning a trip and want to be prepared just in case your luggage doesn’t arrive with you (yes, it happened to me on this trip— 12 days in Italy, no suitcase), you might want to bookmark this for later:

👉 [Lost Luggage in Italy: What I Learned (and How to Get Reimbursed)]

It’s full of tips on what to pack, how to handle reimbursements, and what not to do when you’re suddenly suitcase-free abroad.

Venice in a Flash

We kicked off our trip in Venice — a city that never loses its magic, no matter how many times you visit. Not our orignal planned destination, but with no luggage it was needed to gather a few essentials. We soaked up the beauty of the canals, the warm evening light on the Grand Canal, and a lingering espresso by the Rialto.

Before boarding our (day-late) flight to Venice, we decided to stay at the JW Marriott Venice Resort & Spa. After my luggage showed up two days late on last year’s trip to Italy, I knew better than to risk heading straight to a small town where even finding basics—like underwear—can be a challenge!

The hotel sits on its own private 40-acre island in the Venetian Lagoon. Pulling up to the resort by private water taxi was straight out of a James Bond movie — the kind of entrance that makes your trip feel cinematic from the start.

JW Marriott Highlights:

• Family-friendly pool & rooftop adults-only pool

• Paddle courts (similar to pickleball)

• Large fitness center and full-service spa

• On-site restaurants and bars

• Complimentary shuttle boat to the San Marco district

But… a few caveats:

While the setting is unique, this isn’t your typical JW luxury experience. The grounds were not well maintained, with overgrown weeds in some areas. The rooftop pool only has about 30 seats, so you’ll need to arrive early to enjoy sun!

Our Honest Take: Consider the Hilton, Too

We’ve also stayed at the Hilton Molino Stucky Venice and honestly? For the price and food quality, the Hilton wins.

Their breakfast spread is absolutely amazing — easily one of the best we’ve had in Europe. The hotel is set in a converted flour mill with industrial-chic charm and also has its own shuttle service to central Venice, plus a rooftop bar with great views (and more seating than the JW).

📍 Hilton Verdict:

If you’re looking for better service, food, and value, the Hilton may be your better bet — especially if you don’t need resort-style grounds or paddle courts.

Getting to Cortina: Trains, Buses, or Private Car?

Getting from Venice to Cortina d’Ampezzo takes some planning, and the experience can vary dramatically based on your budget and schedule.

• 💸 Budget-Friendly Option (~€30):

Take a train and a bus, which takes around 4-5 hours total. Start with a train from Venezia Mestre to Calalzo-Pieve di Cadore, then transfer to a Dolomiti Bus into Cortina. It’s scenic, reliable, and a great way to experience the countryside — just be sure to pre-purchase your tickets on the Trenitalia app.

• 🚘 Luxury Option (€600):

Book a private car service for a direct, stress-free ride that gets you to Cortina in about 2 hours. It’s expensive, but ideal if you’re traveling with a group or just want to start your mountain escape in comfort.

• 🛻 Rental Car:

If your itinerary involves multiple day trips or you’re not doing a hut-to-hut trek, renting a car may offer the most flexibility. Just be prepared for mountain roads and limited parking in some areas.

• 🏨 Hotel Shuttles & Local Transport:

Many hotels, including Faloria Mountain Spa Resort, offer shuttle service to the town center, where you can access buses or local taxis. If you’re mostly hiking or staying local, this may be all you need.

Where We Stayed: Faloria Mountain Spa Resort

Cortina d’Ampezzo — the pearl of the Dolomites — served as our base for exploring the region. We stayed at the stunning Faloria Mountain Spa Resort, nestled in the hills just outside the town center.

The setting is serene, the design beautifully blends alpine chic with modern elegance, and the on-site spa is the perfect reward after a long day on the trails.

Our Rooms at Faloria:

• Junior Suite

Spacious and well-appointed with a king-sized bed, cozy sitting area, two full bathrooms, table with four chairs, and a balcony with panoramic mountain views. Perfect for couples or small families.

• Penthouse Suite

Our favorite! It had all the features of the Junior Suite, plus a larger dining table and a plush sectional couch ideal for lounging with an Aperol Spritz after a long hike. It felt like a true alpine apartment.

Note: Not all rooms have air conditioning. Normally not an issue in the Alps — unless you’re visiting during an unseasonably warm week (which we did). Check before you book!

Hut-to-Hut Hiking in the Dolomites

Once rested, we set off for a multi-day hut-to-hut trek through the Dolomites — one of the most rewarding and visually breathtaking hikes we’ve ever done.

We used Bookatrekking.com to plan our route. They made the process effortless by:

✅ Booking all our rifugio (hut) reservations

✅ Providing custom day-by-day maps

✅ Giving us everything in a digital format, which we uploaded into AllTrails for real-time navigation

If you plan on booking on your own, the huts book up very fast so find out when the huts open for booking and start calling ASAP!

The trails varied in difficulty — some stretches were mellow and scenic, others included tough ascents and even tougher descents. The views were staggering: jagged limestone peaks, flower-dotted meadows, and sweeping valleys at every turn.

Each mountain hut welcomed us with warm hospitality, delicious food, and lively communal tables where hikers from around the world gathered to swap stories.

Having stayed at LeConte Lodge in the Smoky Mountains, I wasn’t expecting much in terms of comfort or amenities. But Refuge Pederü completely surprised me — it was incredibly clean, cozy, and welcoming. Europe just does hiking differently — with charming huts on the trails, and a touch of hospitality you don’t often find in the backcountry.

⸻

🥾 Packing Tip: You Don’t Need to Be a Mule

If you’re planning your first hut-to-hut hike, don’t overpack snacks and food. The rifugios are amazing, and they’re well-stocked with delicious local cuisine — from hearty stews to fresh pasta, and of course, cold beer and homemade desserts.

You can even request takeaway lunch for your next day’s hike.

💡 Check your map before you leave each morning — chances are high that you’ll pass another hut mid-hike, where you can stop for lunch, a coffee, a soda, or a slice of apple strudel. There’s no need to haul heavy trail meals or snacks across mountain passes.

⸻

🧳 Pro Tip: Use a Luggage Transfer Service

We carried our big backpacks but wished we had used a luggage transfer service to move our stuff from hut to hut —mServices like Mont Trekking plan your entire hike plus offer door-to-door luggage transport so you can hike light and avoid putting unnecessary stress on your knees (trust us — your knees will thank you). I have not used this company so research and read reviews!

We were overloaded with gear, and it made even the flatter stretches difficult. If you want to enjoy the views instead of just surviving the trek, keep your load minimal and let someone else handle the heavy lifting.

Where to Eat in Cortina d’Ampezzo

From Michelin-star meals to wood-fired pizza and German beer halls

Cortina isn’t just about jaw-dropping alpine views — it’s a culinary gem too. Whether you’re looking for a once-in-a-lifetime tasting menu or something more casual after a long hike, there’s no shortage of great food here. Here’s where we ate (and loved):

⸻

🌟 SanBrite: A Once-in-a-Lifetime Culinary Journey

SanBrite is a Michelin-starred restaurant tucked into the forest just outside Cortina, and it was hands down one of the most incredible meals of our lives.

We chose a lunchtime seating, which turned out to be smart — because this is not a quick meal. The experience lasted nearly 3.5 hours and included 15 small courses, 9 wine pairings, and 2 cocktail pairings. It was inventive, deeply rooted in alpine ingredients, and absolutely unforgettable.

🚕 Getting there: It’s about a €20 taxi (Tasa) ride from the town center.

🍽️ Pro tip: Cancel any dinner plans afterward — you will be full.

⸻

🐄 El Brite De Larieto: Farm-to-Table Simplicity

If you want to enjoy the same incredible flavors as SanBrite but with a more casual, quicker experience, visit El Brite De Larieto — the farm and restaurant that supplies SanBrite.

You’ll still get thoughtfully prepared alpine dishes and house-made cheeses, but without the time (and price) commitment of the tasting menu. It’s rustic, warm, and family-friendly, with a beautiful mountain backdrop.

🚕 About a €20 taxi ride from town, just like SanBrite.

🧀 Great option for farm-to-table lunch or a hearty early dinner.

⸻

🍺 Pontejel Bierstube Forst: Alpine German Pub Vibes

For something heartier and more relaxed, head to Pontejel Bierstube Forst. This cozy pub-style restaurant serves excellent German-style food — think sausages, schnitzel, pretzels, and a full selection of Forst beers on draft. Great place to refuel after a day on the trails.

📍 Located in town — easy walking distance from most hotels.

⸻

🍕 Pizza Favorites in Town

• El Bronsin

A lively, welcoming restaurant just outside the town center. Thin-crust, wood-fired pizzas with locally inspired toppings.

📍 Walking distance from central Cortina

• Ristorante Pizzeria Il Ponte

Classic Italian pizza with a variety of pastas and secondi dishes as well. Great for groups and families.

📍 Short walk from town center.

⸻

Ascending to Cima Tofana: A Gondola Adventure from Cortina d’Ampezzo

One of the most thrilling and scenic experiences in the Dolomites is the gondola ride from Cortina d’Ampezzo to Cima Tofana, the third-highest peak in the Dolomites at 3,244 meters (10,643 feet). This journey is not for the faint of heart—especially those uneasy with heights—as it involves a series of three gondolas and cable cars, each lifting you higher above the rugged alpine landscape.

The ascent begins just outside of town, where you board the first gondola at Tofana Freccia nel Cielo. As you glide upward, panoramic views of Cortina’s lush valley floor quickly give way to craggy limestone cliffs and towering peaks. The second stage brings you even closer to the clouds, with views that feel straight out of a movie. By the third and final lift, you’re practically skimming the sky.

Along the way, there are several scenic Rifugios, perfect for a stop to rest, enjoy a cappuccino, or linger over a hearty alpine lunch. Popular choices include Rifugio Col Druscié and Rifugio Ra Valles, where you can sit on a sunny terrace and marvel at the view across the Ampezzo Valley.

At the summit of Cima Tofana, the air is crisp and the views are jaw-dropping—360 degrees of jagged peaks as far as the eye can see. For the truly adventurous (and sure-footed), there’s a short scramble to reach the summit cross, where you can snap an epic photo to mark your place on one of the highest peaks in the Dolomites. Just don’t look down.

Final Thoughts

Northern Italy offers a little bit of everything: romantic cities, dramatic mountains, luxury hotels, and rugged hiking adventures. Even with a few travel hiccups (hello, missing luggage), it was an unforgettable journey we’d gladly repeat — just maybe with carry on baggage next time.

The Dolomites are breathtaking in every sense—jagged peaks, golden light, and trails that challenge both body and spirit. But what stayed with me most wasn’t just the scenery—it was the feeling that these mountains remember. Every rock and ridgeline seems to whisper the past: war, resilience, love, and loss.

Before the trip, I started reading Beneath the Red Sky, a historical fiction novel set in Northern Italy during World War II. It follows a family caught in the grip of war and resistance, and it brought a haunting depth to every step we took. As I climbed toward the mountain peaks, I couldn’t help but think of the characters who once looked at these same peaks and saw not beauty, but survival.

“The mountains remember everything—the footsteps of soldiers, the cries of the lost, the silence of those who never returned…”

— Beneath the Red Sky

If you plan to visit this region, I highly recommend bringing the book along. It gave our journey weight and heart—and reminded me that some landscapes don’t just frame history; they hold it.